MICHELIN STAR BENARES, BERKELEY SQ.

Benares: an ancient Indian city on the banks of the Ganges, regarded as a place of historic, religious and cultural importance. Also a rather smart Indian restaurant next to the Bentley garage on Berkeley Square.

I ponder these contrasting locations in Benares’ bar as I sip on my peach and lemongrass martini in its delicately iced glass. How does one bring a little piece of a 2000-year-old holy city to Mayfair?

A dark marble pool filled with bright flowers floating delicately on the surface is apparently representative of the Ganges. It’s relaxing but it doesn’t exactly conjure up images of the 2000km holy river. Maybe I’m lacking in imagination.

When we walk into the dining room, waiters nod, hands in prayer position and greet us with the Indian salutation ‘Namaste’ (I bow to you).

It is discrete and welcoming although I wonder whether I would have understood what they were going on about if the phrase wasn’t widely bandied about in my yoga classes. Moments later my thoughts are confirmed by my man guest who looks suitably quizzical and asks, “ what the hell do they keep saying to us”.

Benares does not look like your typical Indian restaurant -which is no real shame unless you have a penchant for garish paintings and dodgy statues - it is softly lit, with expensive-looking glassware, real flowers, and dark wooden panels, breaking up the white walls.

Arnaud, (“I’m what they call the Maitre’d, you know - the man that makes everything extra”) describes to us in detail the philosophy of the chef, Michelin starred Atul Kochhar “the Master of the Spices”. We are told that great importance is placed on balancing spices as well as balancing British influences with Indian cooking and vice versa.
Arnaud explains this all enthusiastically, with a little flick of his hands at the end of each phrase. I’m disappointed that he doesn’t wink at the same time.

We are quickly presented with a wooden box full of miniature poppadoms and a trio of fruity chutneys. Dinky as they are, the poppadoms are delicate, crispy perfection.
We opt for the “grazing” menu and the selection of accompanying wines. This menu is updated from time to time but gradually, so as not to disappoint the regulars, we are told. It is a marathon of six different starters (served in two stages), three different mains and three deserts not to mention five different wines but portions are not intimidating and there is time to consider each morsel.

It is obvious that a great deal of thought has been put into the matching of wine and dishes. For the starter courses, the pairing of a creamy South African Chardonnay with a crab salad served in a fine wheat bubble is successful and the smell of the wine alone has me grinning like the Cheshire Cat. Beautifully succulent monkfish tails with a tangy marinade of yogurt and lime also marry well with a crisp glass of Italian Soave.
My boy guest questions whether the Pinot Noir served with the main courses is subtle enough with the roasted rump of lamb (pink and juicy) The coupling, I contest, is close to the counsel of impeccability. The rich berry flavours of the wine work equally well with the accompanying corn fed chicken supreme, which is full of flavour and accompanied by a smooth and unimposing cashew and yogurt sauce.

For dessert, a lemongrass infused (baseless) cheesecake is a little fluffy cloud of happiness. Coupled up with the desert wine, a glass of lychee-scented Gueth Gewurztraminer, it is a fine end to a considered menu.

Yes it tastes fabulous, but there is something missing: it just doesn’t feel that Indian.
The diners are a mixed bunch; expensively dressed American tourists discuss plans for the next day whilst exclaiming how “divine” their food is. A table of middle aged and ruddy faced banker types get through several bottles of wine and strain at their polka dot braces. Chatter is increasingly audible throughout the evening, but not loud and people look relaxed, not stilted.

It isn’t an obvious date place – it is too buzzy and even the bankers look like they are there to socialise rather than to negotiate.

This is a very good restaurant but I am confused. I’m certainly not in India and what I have just eaten, although very enjoyable, is not typically Indian. This is fusion food, done extremely well, as one would expect for the price.

But I’m obviously just in Mayfair and that’s a shame because as nice as Mayfair is, I was craving something a little bit more exotic. Ironically, I can’t help feeling that the only place where this restaurant would actually feel exotic is probably in Benares.
The Grazing Menu with wines costs £99 per person.

12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS
http://www.benaresrestaurant.com